Olympos
(HISTORY AND LIFESTYLE) by Constantinos Minas, Lecturer of the Aegean University Manolis Makris, writer
The region of Olympos lies in the north of Mount Kimaras and includes not only this northernmost part of Karpathos,
but also the islet of Saria, which is separated from Karpathos by Steno, a straight about 100 meters wide, that was
created by soil erosion. The Olympos region has an area of 37 square kilometers, excluding Saria, which is about a
third of the whole island of Karpathos. Most of the region is mountainous and covered with vegetation and woods.
The main mountains are Ais Ilias (718m), Orkili (713m), Kimaras (692m), Stioi (639m), Malo (635m), Korifi (588m),
Oros (561m), Asia (531m) in Karpathos and Pachi Vouno (630m) in Saria. The most important plains of the region
are the valleys of Avlona, Ahordea and Kilios and the valley of Pila in Saria. Smaller in area but still important, as far
as agricultural production is concerned, are the regions Pei (the name comes from the ancient word πεδίον=field),
Kampi, Ammoi (from the ancient word αμμόγη=sandy soil) and Nappa (valley) and Argos (plain close to the sea) in
Saria. One interesting element of the local geography is the partition of the region by the sea, where the impressive
natural harbor of Tristomo was formed, and the many picturesque bays such as the Vroukounta, Fises and Evgonimos bays on the west side, and the Vananta,
Diafani, Apokapos, Opsi, Kapi, Agnontia, Forokli, Kantri, Filios, Nati bays on the east side and the Giaplos, Palatia, Alimounta and Mea Alo (long beach) bay in Saria.
Although the region doesn't offer itself to plant growing, the diligence of the inhabitants, who didn't leave even a square inch of soil uncultivated, made it possible
to feed about 1,500 people, the inhabitants of the village in the 40's and 50's and perhaps in earlier years.
The archaeological excavations showed that Minoans and Myceanaens
settled in the Olympos region in the 15th century BC. According to the
information found in ancient writers (Ski lax, Striven) and the
archaeological findings, there were two important cities in the Olympos
region since the 4th century BC, namely Vrykous, which today is called
Vroukounta, and Nisiros "homonymous with the island of Nisiros"
located on Saria and renamed Palatia (palaces) by the inhabitants of
Olympos because of the size and number of buildings that were
rediscovered upon return to the islet. Somewhere near the Steno region
either on the Karpathos or Saria side there was a temple dedicated to
Poseidon, a place of worship for the whole island of Karpathos during the
classical and Hellenistic period. The famous inscription, known as "Dorian
resolution of Karpathos", was found in Vroukounta. This inscription
concerns a doctor called Minokritos Mitrodorou, whom the inhabitants of
Vrykous bestowed the highest honors, because he had offered his medical
services unselfishly and unimpeachably for more than twenty years.
There are tens of carved tombs, ruins of walls and fortifications and some
Remains of buildings from the Hellenistic period in the city of Vrykous.The
Byzantine monuments found in the Vroukounta and Palatia regions show,
life continued in these cities during the Byzantine era. The ruins of the big
basilica in Palatia (in the site of today's Agia Sofia), in Steno (in the site of
today's Agia Ekaterina) and in Filios (in Archagelos) date back from around
the 6th century AD and it is believed that Christianity came to Karpathos,
and especially Olympos, before that century. It is thought - although it
hasn't been verified - that Ioannis of Karpathos, an eminent figure of the
6th century church, lived in Vroukounta. The inhabitants of Vrykous and
Nisiros stayed in their cities until the end of 7th century, and perhaps the
8th century. Then because of Arabic raids, were forced to look for shelter,
probably relocating the entire cities, away from the sea, in naturally
protected sites. It seems that Vrykous hasn't been inhabited since, while
in Palatia life continued, probably with Arab inhabitants, who used the
city as their base of operations, because the position of the city allowed
them to dominate the passage between Rhodes and Karpathos. This
theory is substantiated by the fact that only Arabs could live close to the
sea during that period and because of the constant raids. The ruins found
today in Palatia resemble the constructions of Syria dated before the 10th
century. As it seems from the ruins and the deep clefts in the ground, the
city of Palatia was destroyed by a strong earthquake, in the first two or
three centuries of the second millennium AD.
Ancient Era
Later History
Not much information concerning Olympos and the settlement of
the first inhabitants there, up to the last century, is available. The
very few travelers, who visited Karpathos, didn't go as far as
Olympos, although they describe with admiration the reputation
the archaic language, the customs and the songs of the region
enjoyed. Nevertheless, we can tell the history of Olympos during
that period on the basis of the history of the island and the wider
region as well as whatever was saved by the popular tradition,
as follows:Since the time Moavias, the governor of Syria, looted
Karpathos in 647, Saracens raided the region, until they were finally
forced out of Crete by Nikiforos Fokas in 961. In the following years
Crete Kasos and Karpathos formed the "Thema of Crete" (Crete
county) headed by a Byzantine general. When the Franks conquered
the Byzantine Empire in 1204 the island was successively governed
by the Cretan nobleman Leontas Gavalas, the Genoan Moresco
family and the Cretan-Venetian Kornaros family until 1537 when the
Turkish navy under Hairedin Barbarossa overthrew the Frank rule.
During the Greek revolution for independence in 1821 Karpathos
revolted and overthrew the Turk rulers, but it was given back to
Turkey under the Provisions of the London Protocol, signed in 1830.
The Italians took over from the Turks in 1912 until the Dodecanese
islands joined Greece in 1948. The special tax and administrative
privileges granted to the islands during the Turkish rule helped the
inhabitants develop a form of democratic local government and
enjoy a satisfactory standard of living. Until the last years of Italian
rule Olympos was governed by a council elected annually from all
the adult men, who had wide administrative, tax, educational and
judicial powers. It is especially surprising how these local governors
managed to determine the annual use of land, satisfying the needs
of the village and balancing the clashes between the agricultural
and the cattle-breeding groups.
Today's village is certainly much bigger than the original 9th and 10th century settlement. When the pirates stopped their raids, the village expanded both
towards the east and the west mountain side. Along the mountain top there is a row of horseshoe-shaped windmills, a distinctive feature of Olympos.The
central church of the village, Kimisis tis Theotokou (the Assumption of the Virgin) is impressive. Built in the Byzantine style, its whole interior is covered with
murals dated from the years of the Turkish rule. The icon screen, made of carved wood, is an excellent piece of art. It was covered in tar to conceal the gold
plating and only recently has it been restored to its original state. Apart from the central church, there are lot of picturesque chapels throughout the village
and the region. Today many of the houses in the village are uninhabited because of immigration.
